Rock Climbing 101

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What is rock climbing?

Rock climbing is an outdoor recreation activity that involves ascending a boulder, cliff, or rock face. Rock climbing is enjoyed both in an indoor climbing/bouldering gym or at outdoor climbing areas called “crags”. Participation in rock climbing began in Europe the early 1900s, came to the United States around the 1950s, and has been steadily increasing over the past few decades to include millions of participants.

What are the different types of rock climbing?

There are many different types of rock climbing including bouldering, top-rope climbing, lead climbing, sport climbing, traditional (trad) climbing, and aid climbing. These types of climbing are described as…

Free Climbing:

Ascending a rock face using your hands and feet to make upward progress while being “free” of any equipment assistance to gain progress. Free climbing is almost always done with a rope or crash pads for protection in the event of a fall and includes bouldering, top-rope climbing, lead climbing, sport climbing and trad climbing. Free climbs are graded in difficulty using the Yosemite Decimal System which ranges from 5.0 (easiest)-5.9 (intermediate). Above 5.10, letter grades of a, b, c, and d are included after the grade to further describe a routes difficulty (ex. 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a, etc.) all the way up to 5.15d (hardest grade as of 2024).

  • Bouldering: Climbing a shorter “boulder problem” which is typically 10-15 feet in height while using crash pads to mitigate injuries when falling. Boulder problems typically have more difficulty individual moves and are graded in difficulty using the V-scale which ranges from V0 (easiest) to V17 (hardest).

  • Top-rope Climbing: A beginner-friendly form of climbing where a rope a rope is tied into a climber, runs through a high anchor near the top of the climb, and comes back down to a belayer. This is a popular introductory type of climbing because, in the event of a fall, the climber might only go down a small amount since the rope is fed through an anchor that is always above the climber.

  • Lead Climbing: Placing or clipping protection as you climb while clipping your climbing rope to that protection to mitigate the risks of a fall. Lead climbing is a more intermediate/advanced type of climbing because there is typically bigger longer falls when compared to top-rope climbing. Lead climbing is a way of climbing a route if you are unable to setup an anchor from the top of the cliff.

  • Sport Climbing: A form of lead climbing where there are fixed bolts going up the route. In sport climbing, a climber uses quickdraws to secure the rope to the bolts as they ascend.

  • Traditional/Trad Climbing: A form of lead climbing where there are no/minimal fixed bolts and a climber must place their own equipment (cams, nuts, hexes, etc.) in cracks to protect a fall. Climbing ethics suggest that if a route can safely be ascended using traditional climbing equipment, developers use restraint and not place any unnecessary bolts if there is adequate natural protection options.

  • Aid Climbing: Ascending a rock face by pulling on equipment to “aid” in making upward progress. This is a common type of climbing for big-wall climbers who spend multiple hours or days on a route.

Following the release of the Film Free Solo in 2018, many people became interested in free climbing yet confused about both the terms ‘free’ and ‘solo’. Free climbing is when a climber ascends a rock face using their hands and feet without pulling or stepping on artificial gear or aid gear. Free soloing is when a climber ascends a rock face using their hands and feet without using a rope. This form of climbing is very dangerous and the consequences of a fall are severe. For this reason, a majority of rock climbers use a rope or crash pad(s) to mitigate the risks associated with falling.

Bouldering

“Trad” climbing

Sport climbing

Aid climbing

What are the benefits and risks associated with rock climbing?

Both indoor and outdoor climbing have many benefits along with inherent risks. Rock climbing fosters community, supports tourism economies, promotes wellness through physical and mental activity, and encourages a connection to natural resources. Along with these benefits, rock climbing is inherently dangerous because it involves technical rope systems where people are high above the ground in a dynamic environment. There are many ways to mitigate these risks and climbers should seek a qualified instructor or climbing guide to learn more.

What are some commonly used rock climbing terms?

  • Send/Redpoint: Completing a climbing route or boulder problem without falling

  • Flash: Completing a climbing route or boulder problem without falling on your first attempt

  • Onsight: Completing a climbing route or boulder problem without falling on your first attempt without any advice or beta from other climbers

  • Beta: Helpful information about how to do a certain movement, sequence of movements, or equipment needs for a specific route

  • Route: A climbing path up a rock face

  • Jug: A big hold that is very easy to hold

  • Crimp: A small hold that is often so small, you can only hold it with the tips of your fingers

  • Sloper: A type of hold that is rounded, making it challenging to hold

  • Sidepull: A sideways-facing climbing hold

  • Undercling: A downward-facing climbing hold

  • Foot Jib: A small climbing hold that is only big enough for the tip of your climbing shoe

  • Bolt: A stainless steel expansion or glue-in contraption that attaches a hanger, chains, or a perma-draw to a rock face

  • Hanger: A stainless steel ring that is secured to a rock face using a bolt

  • Anchor: A climbing system that secures a rope or climber to a specific point

  • Chains: Multiple stainless steel links that are sometimes found on bolts at the top of a climbing route

  • Perma-draw: A quickdraw that is permanently attached to a bolt

  • Belaying: A climbing skill used to protect a climber in the event of a fall

  • Rappeling: A climbing skill used to descend a cliff or rock face

What equipment is used when rock climbing?

  • Helmet: Commonly worn when outdoor climbing to mitigate the risk of rockfall or hitting your head when climbing.

  • Harness: Worn by both climbers and belayers as a secure point to attach the climbing rope to

  • Climbing Shoes

  • Climbing Rope: Ropes are generally categorized as either dynamic or static. Dynamic ropes are used when climbing as a way to catch the climber if they fall. Dynamic ropes stretch a bit more, lessening the shock force felt by the climber. Static ropes are most commonly used for anchor building when equalizing natural anchor points.

  • Chalk & Chalk Bag: Carried by most climbers to wick moisture from your hands as you climb.

  • Quickdraw: A piece of equipment consisting of two carabiners and a sewn “dogbone”. Quickdraws are clipped to bolts (and then clipped into with the climbing rope) and used as the primary form of protection for sport climbers

  • Trad Equipment: Passive (nuts & hexes) and active gear (cams, friends & tri-cams) used to protect a climber on a traditional route, when natural cracks provide opportunities for protection as opposed to bolts

  • Crash Pad: Thick, foldable pads used by boulderers to cushion the impact of a fall

How can someone learn to rock climb?

To learn more about rock climbing, seek qualified a qualified instructor or guide. Climbing gyms can be a great place to begin your education. Progressing in rock climbing can be challenging but finding a qualified mentor or guide is highly recommended. Here are a few resources in Grand Junction: