Good Practices for All Climbing Areas 

When climbing, we are visitors to the local communities and we want to be in good standing by having a low impact, maintaining good relations with locals, and working with land managers. Please visit the Access Fund for the Climber’s Pact: https://www.accessfund.org/learn/the-climbers-pact.

To follow are a few good practices of special concern for all climbing areas in Western Colorado:

  • Understand that climbers are one of many user groups, and that residents and businesses have their own interests.

  • Respect private property.

  • Park only in legal, public, and safe spots.

  • Follow Leave No Trace Ethics including using waste bags for your business.

  • Abide by wildlife closures.

  • Use established access corridors and trails.

  • Don’t disturb vegetation.

  • Don't drive off existing roads.

  • Camp only in established and open areas.

  • Avoid making loud noises.

  • Don’t disturb or remove historical, archeological, or cultural artifacts.

Learn more about specific considerations for each climbing Area Below!

Escalante Canyon Interesting Facts:

  • The Canyon is named for Friar Silvestre Escalante, who with Friar Atanasio Dominguez led an expedition to western Colorado in 1776.

  • The Canyon is home to ringtails, bears, mountain lions, bighorn sheep and collared lizards.

  • The Canyon is part of the Dominguez-Escalante National Conservation Area managed by the BLM, and portions are designated as an area of Critical Environmental Concern and a Watchable Wildlife Area.

  • Bjornstad’s original Desert Rock (1988) has a chapter on early climbing in the canyon and Green’s Rock Climbing Colorado (2010) also has some route information. Use your own judgement relative to the gear information in Bjornstad’s book which is commonly: “PARAPHERNALIA One set of Friends”.

  • Most of the early routes were climbed to the top of the Wingate Sandstone with a walk off, and a few were downclimbed without leaving anchors.

  • There's a 1.5 billion year discontinuity between the sedimentary rock (the Wingate Sandstone we climb on and the lower Chinley Formation), and the underlying granite and gneiss in the canyon bottom.

  • The fences made from snags and logs are termed “Rip Gut” fences.

  • In 1917 Cash Sampson & Ben Lowe killed each other in a shootout near Zappa Wall.

  • In the summer it’s possible to drive west to La Sal between Moab and Monticello on Utah 191. A high clearance 4x4 and a good map are recommended. It’s also possible to loop around to either Unaweep Canyon or Delta via the Divide Road.

  • Somewhat reliable cell service is available near the Dry Mesa (Rim) Road intersection about 4-1/4 miles east of the Smith Cabin.

Escalante Canyon Friendly Use Practices:

  • Stay within the 20 mph speed limit. Yes, it seems slow - cows are slow, too.

  • There’s a patchwork of public and private land - know where you’re at and respect private property.

  • Driving off of existing roads and camping in new/previously undisturbed sites is illegal. On BLM-managed lands, only drive and camp in areas marked accordingly.

  • The area is an active cattle ranch – don’t interfere with ranch work, don’t harass or spook cattle, and be patient to let them pass.

  • The area has a rich history of Native Americans and homesteaders – don’t climb near petroglyphs/pictographs, or disturb or remove artifacts.

  • Raptors are common - avoid the area when seen.

  • Anchors should be camouflaged with the rock. Shiny anchors may be convenient for locating routes, but they’re an eyesore to non-climbers, contribute to our environmental impact, and have in the past been targets for shooters.

  • To protect the rock, don't climb on wet sandstone.

  • For camp fires, fire pans are required and don’t cut limbs (even dead limbs) from trees.

  • There are pit toilets at the Potholes recreation area.

Unaweep Canyon Interesting Facts:

  • In the Ute language, Unaweep means "Canyon with two Mouths", and the East/West Creek divide is about 5.5 miles west of Divide Road.

  • The Canyon is part of the Dominguez-Escalante National Conservation Area managed by the BLM.

  • K.C Baum’s Grand Junction Rock (1997) is the only dedicated guide to Unaweep, and Green’s Rock Climbing Colorado (2010) has some route information.

  • Climbing in Unaweep goes back to 1970.

  • An overview of the high points and history of climbing in Unaweep is presented in “The Canyon With Two Mouths” by Rob Pizem in Climbing Magazine, October 2019.

  • The majority of Unaweep Canyon cliffs are composed of Precambrian metamorphic rock which dates from 1.4 to 1.7 billion years ago.

  • Copper was briefly mined until 1921 with small extractions and exaggerated assay claims.

Unaweep Canyon Friendly Use Practices:

  • Over half of the canyon bottom is private property – know where you’re at and respect private property

  • Park safely off the road and not on private property.

  • Use established access corridors and trails.

  • Know and follow fire restrictions when camping.

  • Don't trim or remove vegetation.

  • Maintain a low profile – there’s a complex patchwork of public and private property and we don’t want to be creating disturbances.

  • Dispersed camping is available in the Cactus Park area and up on the Divide Road on BLM and USFS lands (Careful to go past the private land).

  • Leaving gear at camp sites is risky - thefts are common.

Colorado National Monument Interesting Facts:

  • In 1911 John Otto was Custodian at $1/month after successfully lobbying Congress to establish the Monument.

  • In 1911 Otto used pipes in drilled holes to climb Independence Monument.

  • Rim Rock Drive was constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps and was completed in the 1950’s.

  • Bjornstad’s original Desert Rock (1988) has a chapter on early climbing in the Monument and Green’s Rock Climbing Colorado (2010) also has some route information.

  • Most of the climbing is on Wingate Sandstone which is 200 million years old.

Colorado National Monument Friendly Use Practices:

  • When leaving established trails, follow washes and exposed rock to avoid damaging cryptobiotic soil.

  • Check at the Park Headquarters and web site for raptor closures and other restrictions.

  • Chalk must be rock colored.

  • Webbing left at anchors must be rock colored.

  • No ropes or gear can be left overnight.

  • All gear must be clean (hammerless).

  • Bolts can be placed only for safety to replace existing anchors and with approval of Park Headquarters.

  • Don’t climb near petroglyphs/pictographs, or disturb or remove artifacts.

  • Trailhead parking is limited - consider carpooling to help.

  • To protect the rock, don't climb on wet sandstone.

  • You can celebrate on top of Independence Monument but not bivy.

  • Paid camping is available near the Visitor Center, and primitive camping is available outside the Park at Turkey Flats and Rabbit Valley.